Monday 29 February 2016

Whirlwind Trip of Oslo (29-Feb) - Part 3 - Viking Museum and Norsk Folkemuseum

After finishing up at the three museums, we caught the bus down to the next one on our list - the Viking Boat Museum.  We stopped outside for lunch - we had ham, cheese and reindeer meat sandwiches:
Making Lunch

Is that meat really Rudolph?


The Viking Museum holds four boats that were found in excavations of burial sites.  All four were used for sailing and raiding first and then used to burial.

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From the descriptive plaque:

The Viking Museum houses the four Viking ship burials from the Oslo Fjord area; those found at Oseberg, Gokstad, Tune and Borre.  All four were excavated between 1854 and 1904.  Three of the graves contained ships that have survived to this day; The Oseberg ship build in AD 820, the Gokstad ship build shortly before 900 and the Tune ship from 910.

The three ships had been at sea for several years before they were pulled ashore and used as burial shops.  The dead were placed in burial chambers build onboard the ships.  The dead were buried with generous supplies of food and drink, various animals and a large number of objects, both functional and decorative.

The Oseberg ship was used as grave ship for two prominent women who were buried in  834AD.  The Gokstad ship burial and the Tune ship burial are both dated to shortly after 900AD.  Both served as grave ships for powerful men.  Most of the objects in the Oseberg and Gokstad graves were well preserved, because the ships had been buried in blue clay and covered with compact layers of clay and turf.  All three graves had been looted in the Viking Age, which explains why no jewellery or weapons were found in the graves.
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 The Oseberg Ship (from the plaque):
The Oseberg Ship was found in a large burial mound on the Oseberg farm in Vestfold, and excavated in 1904.  The ship was built sometime between 815-820 AD, but was later used as a grave ship for a woman of high rank who died in 834AD.  The woman had been placed in a wooden burial chamber on the aft deck of the ship.

The burial mound was constructed of layers of turf which preserved both the ship and its rich contents of wooden objects, leather and textiles. The burial mound was plundered by grave robbers in ancient times - probably the reason why no jewellery or gold or silver objects were found in the grave.

The 22 meter long ship was built of oak.  The number of oar holes indicates that the ship was rowed by a crew of 30 men.  The ship had no seats and the oarsmen probably sat on their own wooden ship's chests. The oars could be drawn in when the square sail was raised.  The steering rudder was placed on the right aft side of the ship - the starboard side.  The Oseberg ship is less solidly constructed than the Gokstad ship - only the upper two rows of side planking extend above the water line.  It was probably a royal pleasure craft used for short journeys in calm waters.
The Oseberg Ship

Oseberg Ship


Oseberg Ship
Oseberg Ship


Skeletal remains from Oseberg


The Gokstad Ship (from the plaque):
The Gokstad ship was found in a large burial mound on the Gokstad farm in Vestfold, and excavated in 1880. It was built around 890 AD and later used as a grave ship for a Viking Chieftain.  The body lay in a grave chamber built of horizontal timber logs.

The  Gokstad ship is 24 meters long with room for 32 oarsmen. It is the largest of the Viking ships on display and also the most robust. Compared with the Oseberg ship, we see that the keel and keelson are larger and more solidly constructed, the side planking higher, and that, when sailing, the oar holes could be closed and sealed using wooden flaps.  During excavation, archaeologists found the remains of 64 shields which had been attached to the outside railings. While the Oseberg ship was a luxury pleasure craft, the Gokstad was a sturdy and practiced vessel, capable of sailing the high seas.

Gokstad Ship

Gokstad Ship


The Tune Ship (from the plaque):
The Tune ship was found in a large burial mound on the Baugen Farm in Østfold and excavated in 1867.  The Tune ship dates from about the same time as the Gokstad ship (ca 900 AD), and also contains the remains of a man of high rank.  This chieftain had been placed in a wooden burial chamber built on board the ship, but his grave gifts have not survived due to poor preservation conditions.  The ship itself is severely damaged.
Tune Ship

Tune Ship


Tune Ship
The Gokstad Burial Chamber and Tent (from plaque):
Each of the three Viking ships had a wooden burial chamber on the deck behind the mast.  They were tent-like structures, probably designed to resemble the tents used on land.  Real tents were also found aboard the ships.  A pair of tent poles may be seen here on wall.

Tent Poles


Gokstad Burial Tent


There were also other burial gifts that were found in the excavations:

A Cart found in the Oseberg dig.


Designs on the wagon



Decorative Grave goods


There were also examples of figureheads:




They also found sleds, this one was found at the front of the Oseberg ship.









The kids were thirsty after all the walking so we got some special water from the Viking museum for way too much - but it was authentic VIKING WATER!


Viking water

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After finishing up at the Viking Museum we heading out to the Norsk Folkemuseum (the Norwegian Folk Museum) which was nearby.  The kids were getting tired so we didn't spend too long there.  The main centrepiece was a Stave Church from the 1200s.

Folkemuseum



The site contained period buildings from various times in Norway's history:


School House

Log Lumberman's cabin with Stave church in background


The stave church was a medieval wooden church built in the 1200s and relocated to the museum in the 1800s.  It was pretty impressive:

Stave Church


Stave Church

Side view

The Altar


Farm buildings


Once we finished up at the Folkemuseum we headed off to a place I was keen to visit - the Vigeland's Sculpture park, to see the "Man attacked by babies".

Whirlwind Trip of Oslo (29-Feb) - Part 2 - Beach, Kon/Tiki, Fram and Maritime Museum.

After arriving in Oslo we went straight to the hotel and crashed out.  The next morning I had a bit of fun trying to get my car out of the carpark.  First we had a ticket from the previous night so we knew that we needed to pay.  The gates were locked and we couldn't get in, so we walked around until we found a døråpner (which translated to door opener).  It had a place to insert our ticket but it was stuck and didn't take the ticket.  So we walked around the corner and found another one.  This time it accepted our ticket and  a bunch of Norwegian appeared on the screen that I couldn't read.  There was a place for a credit card so I inserted mine.  There was a buzzing every few minutes but I couldn't work out what it was.  Eventually we realised that the door wasnt going to open, so I headed into the office.  

It turned out that the machine was only there to open the door for regular visitors who had access cards. The buzzing was the owner opening the door for us.  He told us that we needed to pay on the way out, so we got the car and drove to the pay machine in the entrance. We tried to pay but it rejected our payment and said we needed to pay at the head office. So I walked back and had to wait until the manager buzzed the door to let me out.  When I told him we couldn't pay he gave me a really intense look and said "Have you been longer than 24hours." When I told him we'd been there 12 hours he stared at me and said "We have videos so you will get a fine if you have been longer."  I promised him we had been less than 12 hours, so he told me to go around the front and try the pay booths there.  When I got to the front, the doors there were locked too.  I had to wait until the manager saw me waiting and buzzed me in.  It finally accepted my payment.  "You have 5 minutes to get out," the manager said and then headed back to his office. 

I walked back around to the main entrance where Kris was waiting in the car, but of course the door between us was locked so I couldn't get in and the manager had wandered off.  I ended up calling out to Kris and passing her the key through the gate.  Finally we escaped!

Our first target was the Kon-Tiki museum, Fram museum and Maritime museum.  We drove there but couldn't find a park as the carpark was under renovation.  In the end we parked at the only carpark we could find free about a kilometer away:

Where we parked and where we walked

We stayed at the red circle, parked at the red triangle and walked to the red diamond.

Of course the first thing we encountered was ice and the kids went straight to ice-skating in their shoes:

Ice- skating

More ice-skating

Of course there were casualties, and after being warned multiple times there was not much sympathy:


The slide went wrong - no bruises

And another one bites the dust (or ice)


We had the choice to walk along the road or along the beach, so we chose the beach.  The bay looked pretty awesome:

The bay

Looking out over the bay



Looking out over the bay (panoramic)




The beach

Of course, in usual Puplett fashion it wasn't simply as easy as walking along the beach.  We ended up having to climb over shale:

Walking on the shale

...across the black sand and shale:


The black sand and rocks

... across more rocks:


Our path
  
... and then up through someones garden, over their hedges, back down to the beach, over more stones, up a small cliff and then over a gate for an estate.  

Eventually we made it back to the road and to our first set of museums.

There were three museums co-located - The Kon-Tiki, The Fram and the Maritime Museum.

Kon-Tiki Museum:
The first museum we went to was the Kon-Tiki museum.  This was a museum dedicated to the Kon-Tiki expedition.  In 1947 Thor Heyerdahl built a reed raft and sailed from South America to Polynesia to prove that it had been possible for primitive man to have sailed between the two and hence explain the similarities in culture and beliefs.

The first raft was the Kon-Tiki which was made from nine balsa trees, balsa logs and pine splashboards.  It sailed from Callao, Peru on April 28, 1947 and arrived at Raroia atoll in Tuamota where it was beached on a reef.

Thor then undertook several expeditions to the Easter Islands.  After this he built the rafts Ra and Ra II from papyrus and attempted to sail from Morocco across the Atlantic.  Ra cracked up due to a construction fault and the crew had to be rescued.  Thor then built Ra II and sailed to Barbados, proving that it was possible to cross the Atlantic in a papyrus boat.

The final boat was the Tigris, which was a reed boat to sail from Iraq to the red sea.  It was deliberately burned by Thor in protest to wars in the area that prevented their progress.


Easter Island statue outside the Kon-Tiki Museum


Statue outside the museum

Kon-Tiki Museum

Easter Island Statues in the Museum
The statue on the left is a 30ft cast made during the architectural expedition in 1956.  The right one is a replica of a model with a sailing vessel with three masts carved into its chest.

The Kon-Tiki Raft

Kon-Tiki



Relics from Easter Island expeditions


Ra II Raft

Ra II




Fram Museum
 The next museum was the Fram museum, dedicated to the "Fram" (Forward) ship that explored both the Arctic and the Antarctic in 1893 and 1912.  It sailed further south and north than any other wooden ship.  The museum was created by building around the ship:


The Fram Museum



Looking up at the Fram



The Deck



Inside the Fram


Kris and the kids up on the deck

There was also the Gjøa in a secondary building, this was the first vessel to traverse the Northwest Passage connecting the northern Atlantic and Pacific Ocean:

Gjøa


Maritime Museum:
Our final stop in this part of Oslo was the Maritime Museum.  This museum was undergoing renovations and the kids were a bit tired and ratty so we didn't spend very long here.


View from the top floor over the harbour



Figureheads